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Waiting
for Allah
Harper
Collins
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Extract
The Best Buffalo Contest (Taken from Chapter 4)
I was taken aback when the editor of a local newspaper told me solemnly,
‘People kill each other over the best buffalo contest.’
But he was right. The show had far more to do with political rivalries
than bovine quality.
Every
year come April, the nation’s shoe industry would shudder
to a halt and local teashops creak under the• weight of conspirators
planning how to sway the judges and ensure the success of their
chosen candidate. ‘It’s like a mafia operation,’
grumbled Butt, a local farmer who had been persuaded by what he
described as ‘security considerations’ to withdraw his
prime beast. As in the elections, lines were drawn on the basis
of biradaris or clans. Gujrat has three main biradaris – Gujas,
Jats and Kashmiris – each of which would field a candidate
selected by practised ‘spotters’.
As
the day of the show approached, the peaceful fields around Gujrat
were transformed into scenes of heinous crimes as rival groups went
to extraordinary lengths to seek victory. ‘It’s a matter
of honour,’ explained the editor of the local newspaper. ‘They
start with trade-offs or bribes. If that fails they resort to grievously
wounding the owner or his relations. In a close year it can be a
fight to the death.’ A local police officer confirmed that
the crime rate rockets. The beasts themselves are rarely touched,
surprisingly, though one year a wolf was let loose upon a particularly
fine specimen.
Camel
dancing and best sheep contests apparently never evoke such emotions.
‘They are usually settled by a few wife abductions,’
said the editor dismissively. He spoke of the show as an incentive
for development, but to the onlooker it represented the worst excesses
of Pakistan’s feudal society. Leading landlords lounged in
cushioned chairs on a rose-bedecked stage, protected from the sun
by colourful awnings. Waiters in crumpled, sweat-stained white jackets
and slipping bow-ties scurried among them obsequiously, bearing
tea in china cups and sandwiches on silver platters.
As
the teams of the major feudals trotted past on powerful white chargers,
their riders resplendent in bright silks and jewelled turbans, the
lesser landlords clapped limply, apparently oblivious to the surging
sea of faces below, kept back by the lathis of the riot police.
For the crowds it was perhaps the only annual entertainment, TV
being unaffordable even if they were lucky enough to have electricity,
and dancing forbidden. For bonded labourers it was almost certainly
their only day off. The highlight of events was, judging by the
roar of the crowd, tent-pegging, a horseback game similar to jousting.
As expected, the biggest landlord emerged victorious, his Herculean
mount far superior to the scrawny creatures of his lesser colleagues.
As
with most events in Pakistan, the show had a political dimension.
Local bigwigs as always took the opportunity to make turgid speeches,
eulogizing their role in upholding Islam. Using wealth and tribal
connections, Gujrat’s leading Jat family won all four seats
contested in the elections.
They
had scored a further coup by attracting as chief guest Nawaz Sharif,
enjoying the attention in his role as high priest of patronage,
verbally doling out schools and hospitals and other vote-winning
goodies. An old man with the audacity to mount the stage was rewarded
with a road to his village. A police officer was upgraded for his
outstanding performance in an utterly indecipherable game of tag-wrestling,
played by skinny men in Speedo trunks.
By
the end of the day the Chief Minister’s secretary was laden
with sheafs of applications from people demanding postings, transfers
and project approvals. Outside Sharif’s private house in Lahore,
a mini-secretariat had been built to accommodate the floods of people
who arrive daily asking for help in resolving domestic disputes
or minor problems that seem baffling to most of Pakistan’s
population. One woman I met there told me tearfully that her father
had married her off to a dwarf in exchange for money to pay off
a debt to the landlord, and she had fled out of the window on their
wedding night. I never found out how Mr Sharif resolved that one.
One needed to go to the top for everything, and the man at the top
would not willingly relinquish the powers of patronage that enabled
him to remain there.
The
PPP leadership was condescending of this system but in power found
themselves expected to make use of it, while many members saw government
as their turn to get rich. Perhaps they were no different to their
predecessors but, judging from comments by Western bankers, diplomats
and businessmen, they were more blatant. Economic success in Pakistan
had little to do with talent or hard work and everything to do with
political access and who one knew. Nepotism and using connections
was seen not as corruption but as a right. A friend of mine returned
from Johns Hopkins University imbued with Western values, to take
up a job as manager of the Agricultural Development Bank in Mardan,
a position with both jobs and much credit at his disposal. Daily
he was besieged by relations, friends of aunts, acquaintances of
cousins, sons of colleagues of his father, and others claiming even
more tenuous connections, asking for positions or loans. Amjad refused
to treat their cases any differently from other applications he
received from those with no connections. Eventually he found he
could get no work done because of the constant stream of people
touting family or tribal links. So he shut his door and put a notice
on it asking people to make appointments with his secretary. There
was outrage.
Relations,
however distant, are supposed to be accessible, and from bank managers
to ministers, travel agents to police superintendents, it seemed
that no one was supposed to do any actual work in offices. Life
for those some step up the hierarchy involved a constant round of
samosas and cloying tea with visitors. Spending hours chatting in
the offices of senior civil servants, I often imagined that somewhere
in the depths of buildings there must be armies of faceless people
scurrying around, mole-like, producing the vast quantities of files
that occasionally surfaced. Amjad, for his attempts at efficiency
which had his branch whizzing up the league table of credit reimbursement,
was censured by the family for his behaviour. Nepotism was expected
– if you have contacts you use them. Not to participate was
seen as ‘not cricket’ – friends or acquaintances
would constantly ask me to get them a visa or to ask a favour for
their son, brother or cousin when I met a minister. My refusal and
explanation that it would compromise my position was never understood.
When Bhutto became Prime Minister she found that everywhere she
went she was mobbed by supporters waving petitions, demanding recompense
for their sacrifices during martial law. Ministries in Islamabad
would be under daily siege by people waving green, red and black
party cards and demanding entry to see their ‘People’s
Minister’. A senior official from the Development Finance
Institute told me, ‘corruption will be far worse under a political
government – now they have not just friends and relations
but also constituents and party workers to provide for.’ Under
eleven and a half years of dictatorship an awful lot of people had
suffered for the PPP, and with the Treasury coffers empty Bhutto
could satisfy few of them.
Committed
to cutting development expenditure but the victim of promises made
to lure people into the party, Bhutto appointed the biggest cabinet
in Pakistan’s history and an entire battalion of advisers
– more than seventy in all. According to press reports and
diplomatic chitchat, loans, sanctions and contracts were given to
friends and relations with gay abandon, in what one general later
described as ‘the rape of a nation’.
This
was apparently not patronage politics. In the PPP’s terminology,
it was people’s politics. When ministers spent all day arranging
jobs for voters and licences for their patrons, this was not corruption
– it was people’s government. Using the same ploy, the
party renamed many of the country’s schools People’s
Schools, then claimed to have created thousands of new schools.
For
once there was a price to pay. On 6 August 1990 Bhutto’s government
was abruptly dismissed by President Ishaq, accused of corruption
and maladministration. Less than two years from assuming office,
Bhutto was in the dock on four charges, the penalty for which was
seven years’ disqualification from public office. Also charged
were several ministers and her husband Asif Zardari, of whom even
Bhutto’s closest colleagues said that he had been running
a parallel government and that his nod had been essential for projects
to be agreed. His frequent presence at cabinet meetings infuriated
the President, who sent Bhutto notes saying, ‘I don’t
remember swearing in a Mr Zardari as minister.’
Mr
Roedad Khan, the retired civil servant who was heading the inquiry
said, ‘We have concrete evidence – I’m sure several
people will be disqualified.’ He added, ‘Even if not,
the important thing is the accountability process has started and
will warn politicians to behave in future.’ Ms Bhutto, emotional
after the first court appearance in Karachi for charges of selling
cotton at a cheap price to a British company, claimed that the whole
process was a political vendetta. Face blotchy and voice one note
from hysteria, she said, ‘I’m outraged. I’m the
only Prime Minister whose relatives did not take an industrial unit,
who did not have loans written off, yet those who looted the country
go scot-free and dare to point their fmgers at me.’ But she
admitted, ‘Pakistan is a third world country. I’m sure
if you can have scandals in America with 200 years of democracy
you can have them in Pakistan.’
Certainly
in Pakistan’s complicated social system it could be difficult
to position the fine line between corruption and patronage. ‘Pakistan
is a country of superpatronage,’ explained Fakr Imam, the
Clifton-College-educated former Parliamentary Speaker who had lost
his Multan seat in the election. I had wanted to see his village
and had gone to visit him by train, a complicated process. The tourist
office had condemned the idea, the bored director who would rather
be an artist telling me in the most disparaging of tones that there
was ‘nothing to see but Islamic architecture’ and suggesting
a trip to the mountains. The railway director was even less help,
telling me vaguely that there was a train, ‘some time in eveningtime’.
Eventually a timetable from British days was produced, and a train
located (the Shalimar Express – the fastest in Pakistan and
interminably slow), only for me to be told that it is always full
and seats cannot be reserved unless one knows a ‘high-up’.
Going
to Multan by tram seemed so complicated that it became an obsession,
and eventually I was forced to fall m with the system and find a
‘high-up’ who sent some of his servants to the station
with me, brandishing a piece of paper on which was scrawled VVIP
in very big red letters. An entire family was shoved from their
seats to make room so that I could get on, and then compounded my
guilt by pressing on me some of their small flask of cold curry
and nan bread wrapped in newspaper.
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